Month: August 2019

Trip Report: Cartagena

The last time Sona and I really got away without our boys was our trip to Venice and Florence the summer before Finn turned 2. He turns 4 next weekend.

So, to say that a kid-free adventure was in order is an understatement. Luckily, Mimi and Pops were willing to sacrifice a week of their own summer vacation to make it happen.

We’ve tried to remember how and why Cartagena landed on our radar, and we can’t quite pinpoint it. I’m sure it has something to do with an awe-inspiring Instagram photo, as Cartagena has been a hot spot for travelers over the past couple years–and for good reason.

Nonetheless, with only a week to travel, we knew that we didn’t want to waste time going all the way to Europe. We also wanted to be budget-minded on our trip, which can be difficult to do in the Caribbean. Therefore, when the colorful old city of Cartagena presented itself, and we found relatively quick and affordable red-eye flights, which meant that we wouldn’t have to sacrifice a day of fun for a day in an airport, we jumped.

AirBnBs are plentiful and CHEAP in Cartagena. Even though we booked our trip pretty late in the game, meaning the majority of rentals had already been nabbed, we were still able to find one that was super nice, affordable, and in a great area. In fact, we paid around $85/night for our place in Cartagena, which is the cheapest lodging we’ve ever booked for a trip.

From the second our cab pulled into the old walled city of Cartagena, we fell in love. Everything Sona and I love about travel, Cartagena offers in loads: authentic and interesting cuisine, lots of local color, plenty of small streets to wander through, just a touch of exoticism, and more photo-worthy nooks and crannies than I could possibly account for.

We spent the majority of our time in Cartagena either eating our way through the street vendors in the walled city, sipping cups of coffee, and surveying the unbelievable street art in Getsemani. We also took a boat out to Tierra Bomba, where we spent the day at Blue Apple Beach Club; it was fantastic!

Despite the heat and humidity, which were oppressive at times, we fell in love with the little slice of Colombia that we experienced–and the people, all of whom were so genuinely friendly! Cartagena made for a great first impression, but it absolutely won’t be our last trip to Colombia.


Epoca was one of our favorite cafes–and we ate there three times! Ironically, the owners also own the AirBnB we stayed in.
Abaco Libros y Cafe is a must visit!
In that heat, a pool is a must!
While it’s true that there are a lot of street vendors, selling hats and headbands and bracelets, they are all really pleasant.
The neighborhood of Getsemani, which is just outside of the walled city, has the best street art of anywhere we’ve been in the world.
One day, we did a 3 hour street food tour through Cartagena Connections. It was awesome–and we got to taste so much yumminess!

This guy–who was SO NICE–had the very best pineapple and mango with tajin and lime. We went back several times throughout the week!
I had a love affair with arepas throughout the week, and we tried over a dozen. Our very favorite was from Mona, who operates a street cart near Parque Fernandez de Madrid. She was there every night, and we ate them every night!
Though, this particular cart, which is at the end of Calle 38, is often thought to have the best arepas in town.
The rooftop of the Muvich hotel has the best view in the city!
For around $60, you can go spend the day at Blue Apple Beach Club, which has beautiful grounds, delicious food, amazing service, and $30 massages!
Our favorite breakfast from Epoca: passion fruit juice, arepa con huevo, and calentado!
Every “must do in Cartagena” list will include sunset drinks on the wall at Cafe del Mar. However, we much preferred the quieter, less scene-y El Baluarte, and we regretted not spending more evenings there.

Our Cartagena Faves and Recommendations:

  • Rent an AirBnB in the walled city. The further you get away from the historic city’s entrance, the more local the vibe. We stayed near Plaza de San Diego and really loved the area.
  • Eat calentado and limonada de coco at Epoca
  • Get breakfast and pastries at Mila Postres
  • Watch sunset from the rocking chairs at El Baluarte
  • Book a street food tour through Cartagena Connections
  • Skip Playa Blanca and spend at day at Blue Apple Beach Club
  • Thumb through the vast book collection at Abaco Libros y Cafe
  • Search for the sloths and monkeys in Parque Centario
  • Roam around Getsemani, checking out the street art and the local galleries
  • Grab drinks at Demente (head to the backyard) and then enjoy the lively atmosphere of Holy Trinity Square at night
  • Get dinner at El Arsenal and Alma
  • Splurge on the tasting menu at Carmen
  • Grab some cocktails and ceviche on the rooftop of Alquimico, which is has a hip tiki vibe
  • Check out the view from the rooftop of the Muvich hotel
  • Eat as many arepas con huevos as possible, especially from Mona’s cart near Parque Fernandez de Madrid. While you’re there, keep an eye out for the amazing Michael Jackson impersonator!
  • Hang out in as many parks and plazas as you can, eating mango and drinking limeade from street vendors nearby