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Our Family’s 5-Letter Word

1 / 10 / 201 / 10 / 20

No, I’m not talking about THOSE words. Although, we’ve had our experience with them, too. Remember when, at around 2.5, Finn developed a fondness for exclaiming–with impressively accurate emphasis, I might add–“Oh, SHIT”?

No, I’m talking about a word that, to many, has a considerably different connotation than it has in our two-mom household.

Our family’s 5-letter word–the one that elicits near immediate shock and awe and, if I’m being honest, a bit of awkwardness–is DADDY.

Daddy. Dad. Father. Papa.

Those words didn’t always trigger us in the way they do now. Admittedly, neither Sona nor I have really close (or healthy?) relationships with our father figures. My step-father, Rich, is the most consistent male figure in our–and thus, our boys’–lives, but I’ve always just called him by his first name. So, though we’ve explained it to them in the past, I’m not sure that Finn and Elias register exactly how Rich–or, to them, Pops–fits into our family.

More importantly, they haven’t grown up hearing either Sona or myself call anyone “Dad” with any regularity.

Still, they aren’t obtuse. They live in a media-heavy world, surrounded almost entirely by representations of “normative,” heterosexual parents–even in 2020.

Whether its a pants-less tiger or a baby vampire on one of their favorite TV shows or a character in one of their most loved children’s books, whether it’s a llama or a superhero or an animate car or another little boy, most of the kids they digest as part of their multimedia diet have hetero parents; they have a mom and a dad.

Of course, we’ve tried to offset these biases by deliberately exposing our boys to alternative family structures. Though, it can be really difficult to find representations of different kinds of families in anything other than a book called Different Kinds of Families, and I’m more than a little wary about anything that reads as being too didactic. They are kids, after all. I don’t want to lecture them; I just want them to see families that look like theirs–and in the same kinds of contexts in which they see families that don’t.

Can someone please write a series of books that aren’t at all about same-sex parents but where the kids just happen to have–as an aside, not as a central plot-line–same-sex parents?

This is why there is so much value in shows, like Sesame Street or Arthur, that feature same-sex couples or same-sex weddings without highlighting them as being somehow different. They just are.

After all, we don’t learn about our world by being lectured to. We learn about our world by experiencing it. And I want my boys to experience a world where the families they see all around don’t constantly remind them that their own family is different.

When I first read online that Disney is likely going to give Elsa a female love interest in the next iteration of Frozen, I sobbed. Do you know what it would mean to my son–the one who, just this morning, had me play “Elsa’s song” three times on the way to school–if the character he so loves ended up, like his own mothers, loving another woman? It would mean the whole fucking world. That’s what.

I’m no stranger to what it is like to look at the world around you and see not a mirror, reflecting who you are, but a wall, reminding you that you don’t quite belong with everyone else.

Growing up as a lesbian, especially a lesbian in a small, Southern town, a lot of my own anguish centered around coming to terms with my sexuality was not that I felt bad about myself for being gay. Rather, it was that the world was constantly telling me–or showing me–that I was different, and I, like so many others, internalized that difference as bad.

That is, representation matters. Seeing only straightness or thinness or whiteness or richness or Christian-ness or able-bodiedness reinforces the narrative those those things are normal. They are good. And if you live in this world and aren’t those things? Well, it is nearly impossible to escape the suffocating weight of stigmatization that accompanies your own knowing–your own understanding–that what you are is, ultimately, an other.

I’ve never actually said this aloud, but to this day–20 years into a loving relationship with another woman, having an advanced degree and a successful career, being nearly 40 years old–I still catch myself wondering, “Is something wrong with me for loving other women?” I was raised on representations of relationships that only depicted love and attraction as things shared between a man and a woman. And no matter how long I’ve spent writing my own story, one that veers away from that narrative, I still have so deeply internalized that male-female love is normative that I question my own. (I could go off on a whole tangent here about the impact this has on the health of same-sex relationships, but we will save that for another time.)

This is all to say that, as Finn gets older, becomes more familiar with the families of his friends and classmates, and absorbs the media-driven representation of what a family looks like, he’s starting to realize that his family is different than many of the ones he sees.

He hasn’t said this, explicitly, nor has he asked questions about why he has two moms, but it’s clear that he’s been ruminating on what, exactly, a “dad” is–and why he doesn’t have one.

Earlier this year, he jokingly started calling Pops, my step-father, daddy. He said it facetiously, laughing after, but my mother was quick to come home and tell us about it, a deeply concerned look on her face. That concern wasn’t really rooted in a fear about how to respond; it was rooted in a fear that Finn had finally figured it out. The jig was up. He realized that he didn’t have a father–and that he should have one.

We blew it off and didn’t make any attempt to acknowledge his comment afterward. And truthfully, Pops is the closest thing our boys have to a father, and they are lucky to have him. I’m comfortable–maybe even relieved?–with their conceiving of him in that way.

After all, Finn has always seemed to have a pretty intuitively fluid conceptualization of what families look like. He calls Sona “Mommy” and me “Momma,” and, to him, those are distinctly different roles. Just try conflating them and see how quickly he will correct you.

When I say things like, “Darcy has a mommy and a daddy,” he’s quick to snap back, “Yeah, but she doesn’t have a momma.” He’s always considered having two mothers a bonus, and his school friends have been known to complain to their own parents that they don’t have two mothers like Finn.

One time, we were walking through our neighborhood, and we saw a little girl with three women. “Look! She has three mommies!” Finn said excitedly.

But increasingly, the “daddy” thing has become a more apparent fixation of Finn’s. He’s saying it a lot, and he knows that it elicits an awkward laugh, which is likely one of the reasons he keeps saying it.

Every morning this week, as we walk into his Pre-K classroom, he shouts “Daddy!” at his male teacher, Mr. Dom. We all laugh. Finn laughs the hardest. But beneath my laughter is some sadness.

The thing is, I’m sad for Finn in the same way I was sad for myself when I realized I was gay. That is, I don’t actually feel bad for Finn. Finn will be fine. So will Elias. I have complete, unwavering confidence in the family Sona and I have created to support our sons.

There is nothing missing.

We are whole.

They are loved every bit as much–and likely more–than every kid who has both a mother and a father.

Science agrees me. As there are multiple studies, like this one and this one, which evidence that children of same-sex parents, especially lesbian parents, are happier, healthier, and more successful than their peers.

But still, I know how the world sees us–even those closest to us. I know what people say behind closed doors. I know that folks worry that Finn and Elias are going to have trouble developing, especially because they are boys, without the presence a dad.

And if someone tells you that something is a problem enough times, even if they communicate it implicitly, doesn’t it become a self-fulfilling prophecy? If Finn believes something is wrong with his family becomes there’s no father, does not having a father then become an obstacle to his own happiness and fulfillment?

I don’t know, and that’s the source of the awkwardness and awe.

I know we aren’t harming our boys by raising them without a dad, but I don’t know if I can protect from a world that tells them that that absence is harmful.

For now, we will just continue to laugh it off when Finn calls people–including myself and Sona–“Daddy.” We will read him the few inclusive, albeit banal, books about families that come in all shapes and sizes. We will talk with him, as appropriately as we can, about what our own family looks like.

But if your biggest concern is that your little one is going to say “shit” or “fuck” sometime soon–if that’s the word your family most fears–consider yourself lucky, because the world probably considers you “normal.” And our little ones? They know that.

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Whatever Year You’re In, There You Are

1 / 3 / 201 / 3 / 20

“I’m going to write a blog post,” I just told Sona, as she settled into the couch for a quick cat nap before getting the boys.

“You remember how to do that?” she joked.

So, I’m upstairs, the sky outside greying, sitting in the final glow of our Christmas tree–which will hopefully be awaiting pick-up in the alley come tomorrow afternoon. I have 30 minutes before I need to prep dinner, and the almond-scented soft meringues, which I’ve been wanting to cook for months, are drying out in the oven. Fingers crossed.

For me, this is what trying to welcome in 2020–and letting some more light into my life–looks like: this blog post and those meringues.

Here’s the thing: 2019 and I just didn’t get on as I’d expected. It wasn’t until about 3/4 of the way through the year that I realized I was–shall we say–foggy? By but the end of the year, and especially in the midst of the holiday chaos, it became really clear: something has been up.

I’ve never experienced depressive episodes. Have I maybe battled back bouts of depression in the past? Likely. Can I identify with the can’t-get-out-of-bed-heaviness that depression narratives so often circle around? No.

Anxiety has always been my brand of mental illness.

But as 2019 drew to an end and I started to reflect on my year, a lot of which I can only remember through a haze, I realized that, sometime before summer, I started to slip.

Hindsight is 20/20 (see what I did there?), and for whatever reason, I didn’t bother doing the math. I saw all of the disparate symptoms–relentless sleepiness, inexplicable weight gain, frequent illness, general malaise, irritability, hair loss, low-level sadness, increased anxiety–but I didn’t assess the sum total.

Mostly, I knew I’d lost motivation to do anything–but especially the things that give me joy, and that probably should have been the telltale sign. At some point in early December, I crumbled into a ball in front of Sona, sobbing, “I don’t do anything I love anymore.”

I’d lost my joie de vivre.

I’d virtually quit blogging. I haven’t been enthusiastic or inventive in the kitchen. I’ve barely reached for my camera to document the boys’ lives this year. I abruptly stopped working on a writing project that was my primary focus at the beginning of 2019. I haven’t fussed over my Etsy shop or nurtured my photography business.

Ultimately, I stopped engaging any of my usual outlets for creativity.

I stopped doing the things that make me me, and while I don’t know if that qualifies as depression, I do know that it triggered–or was triggered by–something close to it.

A friend recently sent me a meme that said something along the lines of, “2020: But did you die tho?” In fact, I kind of almost did.

Back in March, while on a family trip to Antigua, a severe case of food poisoning morphed into a near-death case of diabetic ketoacidosis, landing me in the ICU for four days. I’m really quick to say that, as much of a setback as that was physically, it didn’t make much of an impact on me emotionally, but Sona has repeatedly said that she thinks that is when I started to slip into a funk.

I also suspect that my medical drama might have triggered another health issue, which I’m going to chat with my doctor about next week.

On top of all of that, I had an extremely flexible teaching schedule this past summer and fall, enabling me to teach online and work remotely more than usual. While everyone kept saying how “lucky” I was to have that kind of flexibility–and I know that I am–I knew early on that having more alone time than usual wouldn’t be good for me. I don’t do well when I have too much time to sit by myself and think. I tend to over-analyze everything and internalize guilt about having so much spare time, which sends me swinging on a really unhealthy pendulum.

On one side, I become hyper-productive, trying to compensate for my own insecurities about not contributing enough–to our family, the world, our bank account–by tackling never-ending to-do lists. On the other, I am positively slothful, somehow even further burdened by the expectations of what I should be doing with my extra time and, ironically, more apt to completely waste it. Thus, the guilt spiral perpetuates.

This is all to say that, as I write this now, three days into the new year, I can see some of the fog lifting. I’ve spent a couple of not-so-fun months reckoning with the hole I’d dug myself into, and the promise of the calendar turning over has given me the nudge I needed to try to claw my way out–placebo or no.

So, this year, my resolutions look a lot more like tiny promises to myself than lofty, externally-motivated goals:

Get back to writing.

Reach for my camera more often.

Be better at listening to my body.

Do the things that bring me joy.

Make the damn meringues.

And mostly, pay more attention to myself and where my head is at.

This is me. It isn’t a before. There won’t be an after. I don’t endeavor to go down a pant size or lose 50 pounds or, god forbid, give up carbs.

But I have gotten myself out of the house every day for a week. I’ve moved my body. I’ve made the doctor appointments I’ve avoided for months. I signed up for an advanced memoir-writing class that begins in three days. I’ve cooked some new meals. I put up Christmas decorations. I’ve let myself take naps without feeling any guilt.

I am showing up for myself–not shaming myself–and that’s what matters. My hope for 2020 is that all of us mommas–who are so good at mothering everyone else–don’t forget to mother ourselves, too.

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On Coming Out

10 / 11 / 191 / 6 / 20
Image may contain: 4 people, including Danielle L. Aquiline, people smiling, people standing, wedding and outdoor

When people see us now, I think this is what they see. And I admit: it looks pretty damn good. We have a wonderful life. We are, as some VSCO girl might say, #blessed.

And yet, as much as I originally started this blog because of a desire to put our family out there as a representation that this (motions all around) is possible–that it does get better–I also see now that the narrative we’ve constructed is only partly true.

Yes, the lovely, joyful life we now lead feels easy. (I mean, easy in the we-don’t-agonize-over-our-sexuality-or-fear-the-repercussions-of-those-we-love-because-we-are-gay kind of way. Not in the we-have-two-careers-and-two-toddlers-and-just-enough-time-and-everything-is-fine kind of way.) But no, it wasn’t always.

To quote Langston Hughes, “Life for me ain’t been to crystal stair.” So, let’s back up a bit.

It’s National Coming Out Day. I think the Danielle of twenty years ago would have put on her Doc Maarten combat boots (which are back in style, btw), adorned herself with every possible rainbow-colored accessory, and made some sort of public stink about it. The Danielle of today sits in her very comfortable bed, listening to the rain fall outside, and writes a blog post.

The Danielle of twenty years ago was tortured. The Danielle of today has settled into herself.

Twenty years ago–or twenty one, if we’re being precise–I came out to the people around me. I was 16.

Unlike Sona, who says she conceived of herself as “gay” from a very early age, I never did. That’s not to say that I conceived of myself as straight, either. It’s just that my worldview wasn’t open to the possibility that I would love anyone but boys. Every woman I knew loved boys. Every TV show I saw orbited–either directly or indirectly–around girl-boy love.

(In hindsight, I now see that part of me did know I was gay at a very early age. I obsessed over the bodies of the other girls in my dance class. I begged my childhood best friend to play “house,” which meant that we would kiss under the stairs while my mother, who worked nights, slept.)

But I didn’t know during the summer of 1998. Will & Grace wouldn’t premiere for another few months. Ellen had come out the year before, but that was hardly on my radar. A few years earlier, some guy named Pedro, who was openly gay and living with HIV, moved into an MTV-funded house full of strangers and was the first openly gay person I’d ever seen on TV.

I guess what I’m saying is that I didn’t know I was gay because I didn’t realize that I could be.

Then, I met someone who was. She was the friend-of-a-friend at my very small high school in my very small Southern town. And what can I say other than that she awoke inside of me what must have been some long dormant desire to love and be loved by someone who wasn’t a boy?

My life can be divided into two periods: BP (before Pam) and AP (after Pam), which really has very little to do with Pam at all and everything to do with the fact that I think I spent 16 years of my life wondering who I was and the rest trying to reconcile exactly what truly knowing who I was actually meant.

There was a period between when I first started falling for Pam and when I admitted to myself that I had fallen for Pam that, in hindsight, were some of the darkest of my life. My family had moved from one part of Tennessee to the other. In the middle of my junior year of high school, I was thrown into a new school, a new community, and I didn’t know a single soul.

During that time, I was sincerely and utterly alone in my fear that I might be a lesbian, which was terrifying. Now, as I try to unpack where that fear came from, I think it must have been rooted in some deep-seated awareness that I was forever changing the course of my life. I was deliberately steering into much angrier seas. I might lose my family. I would probably lose friends (many of whom where deeply conservative and religious). Would I be able to have the life I’d envisioned for myself: a career, a marriage, a family? More than once, I didn’t know whether that life–or any life–was one I could bear to live.

At that same time, I was falling head-first into an Emily Dickinson obsession and had stumbled upon the book Open Me Carefully, which detailed–through letters, poems, and biographical accounts–the likely romantic relationship between Emily Dickinson and her sister-in-law, Susan. That book became my bible. I would read it every night, and every night I would cry myself to sleep. As alone as I felt, I took solace in knowing that someone I admired–hell, someone everyone admired (albeit through misunderstanding)–was like me.

I drove back to the town where Pam lived (and where we’d moved from), I pounded on her door, she opened. And just like that, as if someone had finally wiped the wet-grey fog from my windshield, I could see what I didn’t want to see before: I loved her.

My BFF, Stephanie, was the first person I actually came out to. We’d traveled to Pittsburgh to attend my cousin’s bar mitzvah, smuggling cheap wine coolers into my grandparents’ basement. One night, as we were toe-to-toe in bed, I told her. She allowed herself half a second of shock and then, without missing a beat, asked all the same gossip-y questions any good BFF would when you tell them you are in love.

Coming out to my family wasn’t so easy. I came out to my mother first, while we snapped green beans for creamy Thanksgiving Day casseroles, my grandmother upstairs. To be honest, my memory of that conversation is hazy. I think my mother tried to dodge the conversation, made some comment about how it was a phase, and said something about how I was going to ruin Thanksgiving dinner. (I also have a very vivid memory of her going to hide in our coat closet after, but I know she would say that never happened now.)

My step-father, a man born in a dirt-road town to God-fearing parents whose church community was their only community, was next, and that was the hard one.

Because I love my parents who I know now both regret the way those years played out, and because it would be pointless to recount every single conversation in detail, as we all have different remembrances of how those years were navigated, I will move through the next few years quickly by saying that there were very long periods of time when I could barely stand to be in the same room with my parents, and I know they felt the same way about me. The tension was palpable–and for years. They refused to believe that I was really gay, giving the same excuses I think most parents do when their kids first come out: It’s a phase. It’s just because boys don’t want to date you because you are chubby. You are just seeking attention. Did that one neighbor touch you inappropriately when you were a child? Are you just trying to piss us off?

Ironically, because they were so deeply entrenched in their denial, my parents were also weirdly accommodating of Pam. She was at our house often, staying for days at a time. We were allowed to sleep together. In my bed. With the door closed. They pretended we weren’t doing anything that friends wouldn’t do, and we pretended we weren’t.

Still, when I came out, I’d drawn a line in the sand. For years, we all reacted by retreating–stubbornly and angrily, but likely out of pain–to our own sides. Ultimately, I did what any properly angsty teen would do: I rebelled.

You don’t accept that I am gay? Well, I’ll be the MOST gay. I put rainbow stickers all over my car. I watched every (bad) lesbian B-movie on repeat. I damn-near worshipped Ani Difranco. I took Pam to prom. In 1999. In a small Southern town. IT WAS A THING.

(At the time, I had moved back to my old town for the last half of my senior year of high school. I wanted to graduate with the friends I’d known, and my parents obliged [probably because they wanted to get rid of me], letting me live with a friend from January-May. When that friend’s parents found out I was gay, they wanted me out of their house. One night, when I happened into the kitchen at the same time as my friend’s father–a man who was widely thought to be The Nicest Guy in Town–he told me, milk dripping down his chin, “You know, in the wild, a pack of wolves eats another if he is too different.”)

Later, I became the president of my college’s LGBTQ organization as soon as I stepped on campus. And, when a local newspaper asked to interview me about LGBTQ issues, I accepted.

The article was published on the front page of the newspaper in the town where my parents live, complete with my name and a photograph. They were mortified. They saw in black-in-white text what they’d been trying to deny for years, and more embarrassingly, so did their friends and coworkers.

I was asked to leave my home. For months, I didn’t step foot in my parents’ house. I worked weekends at the CD store 10 minutes away, but rather than staying with my parents, I had to commute back to our college apartment, which was over an hour each way.

Meanwhile, Sona, who had also been disowned by her mother and thrown out of her house, continued to live in my parents’ home. That was more than a little awkward.

Like Pam, my parents loved Sona. I think they first took her in as some sort of motherless kitten. They always accepted her. They always cared for her and welcomed her. At the same time, they vowed they would never accept our relationship, they refused to acknowledge our engagement (after 6 years together), and they said they would never attend our wedding.

The rest, as I think you know, is history. I write more about the years leading up to our wedding–and our wedding–here.

Image may contain: 4 people, including Danielle L. Aquiline, people smiling, people standing, sky, child, outdoor and nature

This is what people see today–and this is what we see today. But we see the lives we have now through the lens of years we spent thinking we would never get here–through a lot of pain and resentment and fear.

I would be doing everyone following our family a disservice to think that we didn’t have to wade through some dark and scary waters to get to where we are now. And I would be doing them an even bigger disservice if I didn’t help them believe–if I didn’t help them see–that you can make it to the other side.

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Trip Report: Cartagena

8 / 6 / 198 / 6 / 19

The last time Sona and I really got away without our boys was our trip to Venice and Florence the summer before Finn turned 2. He turns 4 next weekend.

So, to say that a kid-free adventure was in order is an understatement. Luckily, Mimi and Pops were willing to sacrifice a week of their own summer vacation to make it happen.

We’ve tried to remember how and why Cartagena landed on our radar, and we can’t quite pinpoint it. I’m sure it has something to do with an awe-inspiring Instagram photo, as Cartagena has been a hot spot for travelers over the past couple years–and for good reason.

Nonetheless, with only a week to travel, we knew that we didn’t want to waste time going all the way to Europe. We also wanted to be budget-minded on our trip, which can be difficult to do in the Caribbean. Therefore, when the colorful old city of Cartagena presented itself, and we found relatively quick and affordable red-eye flights, which meant that we wouldn’t have to sacrifice a day of fun for a day in an airport, we jumped.

AirBnBs are plentiful and CHEAP in Cartagena. Even though we booked our trip pretty late in the game, meaning the majority of rentals had already been nabbed, we were still able to find one that was super nice, affordable, and in a great area. In fact, we paid around $85/night for our place in Cartagena, which is the cheapest lodging we’ve ever booked for a trip.

From the second our cab pulled into the old walled city of Cartagena, we fell in love. Everything Sona and I love about travel, Cartagena offers in loads: authentic and interesting cuisine, lots of local color, plenty of small streets to wander through, just a touch of exoticism, and more photo-worthy nooks and crannies than I could possibly account for.

We spent the majority of our time in Cartagena either eating our way through the street vendors in the walled city, sipping cups of coffee, and surveying the unbelievable street art in Getsemani. We also took a boat out to Tierra Bomba, where we spent the day at Blue Apple Beach Club; it was fantastic!

Despite the heat and humidity, which were oppressive at times, we fell in love with the little slice of Colombia that we experienced–and the people, all of whom were so genuinely friendly! Cartagena made for a great first impression, but it absolutely won’t be our last trip to Colombia.


Epoca was one of our favorite cafes–and we ate there three times! Ironically, the owners also own the AirBnB we stayed in.
Abaco Libros y Cafe is a must visit!
In that heat, a pool is a must!
While it’s true that there are a lot of street vendors, selling hats and headbands and bracelets, they are all really pleasant.
The neighborhood of Getsemani, which is just outside of the walled city, has the best street art of anywhere we’ve been in the world.
One day, we did a 3 hour street food tour through Cartagena Connections. It was awesome–and we got to taste so much yumminess!

This guy–who was SO NICE–had the very best pineapple and mango with tajin and lime. We went back several times throughout the week!
I had a love affair with arepas throughout the week, and we tried over a dozen. Our very favorite was from Mona, who operates a street cart near Parque Fernandez de Madrid. She was there every night, and we ate them every night!
Though, this particular cart, which is at the end of Calle 38, is often thought to have the best arepas in town.
The rooftop of the Muvich hotel has the best view in the city!
For around $60, you can go spend the day at Blue Apple Beach Club, which has beautiful grounds, delicious food, amazing service, and $30 massages!
Our favorite breakfast from Epoca: passion fruit juice, arepa con huevo, and calentado!
Every “must do in Cartagena” list will include sunset drinks on the wall at Cafe del Mar. However, we much preferred the quieter, less scene-y El Baluarte, and we regretted not spending more evenings there.

Our Cartagena Faves and Recommendations:

  • Rent an AirBnB in the walled city. The further you get away from the historic city’s entrance, the more local the vibe. We stayed near Plaza de San Diego and really loved the area.
  • Eat calentado and limonada de coco at Epoca
  • Get breakfast and pastries at Mila Postres
  • Watch sunset from the rocking chairs at El Baluarte
  • Book a street food tour through Cartagena Connections
  • Skip Playa Blanca and spend at day at Blue Apple Beach Club
  • Thumb through the vast book collection at Abaco Libros y Cafe
  • Search for the sloths and monkeys in Parque Centario
  • Roam around Getsemani, checking out the street art and the local galleries
  • Grab drinks at Demente (head to the backyard) and then enjoy the lively atmosphere of Holy Trinity Square at night
  • Get dinner at El Arsenal and Alma
  • Splurge on the tasting menu at Carmen
  • Grab some cocktails and ceviche on the rooftop of Alquimico, which is has a hip tiki vibe
  • Check out the view from the rooftop of the Muvich hotel
  • Eat as many arepas con huevos as possible, especially from Mona’s cart near Parque Fernandez de Madrid. While you’re there, keep an eye out for the amazing Michael Jackson impersonator!
  • Hang out in as many parks and plazas as you can, eating mango and drinking limeade from street vendors nearby
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Happy 1st Birthday, Elias!

7 / 31 / 197 / 31 / 19

Oh, boy. All of the tropes about being a second child are totally true. There have been a million things we did during Finn’s first year of life that we failed to do for Elias (monthly photos, 365 days of DSLR pictures, etc.). We had the best intentions. But, you know: #secondchild.

Yet, today, Elias–our sweet, hungry, pudgy, happy-go-lucky baby–turns one, and I couldn’t let that go by without making him a video of his first year. After all, documenting our lives is my love language.

I’ll admit: after having Finn, I wasn’t sure my heart could love another baby boy quite as much, but I was so, so wrong.

Elias: I hope one day you’ll watch this video and know how very, very, very much you are loved. Happy birthday, my sweet baby boy. Thank you for being ours.

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Where to Eat in Chicago

7 / 1 / 199 / 17 / 20
Image result for where to eat in chicago

**Updated 9/17/20

This post has been like 15 years in the making. I’ve written a version of it again and again–in texts messages and emails, to people I’ve never met and to close family members. There’s at least 10 times a year when I get asked, “Where should I eat when I come to Chicago?”

If you have ever visited the city and allowed me to play tour guide for a day, you know how seriously I consider that question. It sends me into a damn-near clinically insane spiral wherein I’m likely to ask you a million follow-up questions (What’s your shoe size? How do you like to spend Sunday afternoons? How were the stars aligned when you were born?) and offer up twenty seven complete multi-step, multi-dish itineraries.

Next to my family and travel and words, food and the City of Chicago are two of the things I hold the most dear. So, when you ask me to tell you how to best eat your way around my city, I go into a full-on tailspin.

Even now, I’m not sure how to best approach this. Top Chicago bites? Organize spots by neighborhoods? Break down by price points? I could write a handbook on where and how to eat in Chicago, but I’m going to try to drill it down to a somewhat palatable blogpost. (See what I did there?) There are no less than four people currently waiting for me to send them my list. Therefore, I figured now is as good a time as any to begin writing it down.

So, without further ado, here is where I think you should eat in Chicago!

I don’t think you have to spend a ton of money to eat well in Chicago, but I do think Chicago has some mid-to-higher-end places that, to my mind, are destination eateries that help put us on the map. Before I breakdown into smaller categories, here is the list of what I consider to be Chicago’s most noteworthy, scene-defining restaurants, in no particular order (it goes without saying that you need to make reservations for all of these places way ahead of time):

Girl & the Goat: Stephanie Izard, of Top Chef fame, is one of Chicago’s most beloved chefs and one of the country’s most successful female restauranteurs. She now has four restaurants in the city. This is the first and most well-known. If you want to try Izard’s food but can’t get into Girl & the Goat, Little Goat is a great alternative!

Monteverde: Another female Top Chef’s feature restaurant. Maybe the best Italian in the city. (Other contenders for this spot would be Spiaggia, Nico Osteria, and Sienna Tavern.)

Alinea: Before anyone gives me shit about this, let me just acknowledge that you can’t make a list of the best Chicago restaurants without including Alinea, which is widely regarded as one of the best restaurants in the world. If you want a combination dinner/theater experience that costs as much as a month’s rent, you should try it. It’s a once-in-a-lifetime meal, and it’s as much about the spectacle as it is about the food.

Publican: This hip, small-plates meat-focused restaurant really put that style of dining on the map, and it was the first to break into the now hot-as-coal food scene in Chicago’s Fulton Market neighborhood. Get the pork rinds and the duck fat fries with a fried egg on top and, if you call ahead of time so they can have it shipped in from Japan, the seafood tower.

Au Cheval: Best burger in the world. There, I said it, and others have too. The last time I went, we waited 7 hours for a table. Yes, 7 hours. Yes, it was totally worth it. If you don’t have the time or energy, you can get an almost-as-good-but-not-quite version at Small Cheval, of which there are many locations.

The Purple Pig: I don’t know a single Chicagoan that doesn’t love this long-standing small-plate wine bar. The food has never been anything less than excellent, and they’ve recently moved to a larger location, which means you actually have a chance of grabbing a table at this spot that doesn’t take reservations but still packs in the crowds after having been opened for years.

Offbeat Hip Neighborhood Spots:

Lula Cafe: Honestly, this could be in the first category, too. Like Purple Pig, every Chicagoan loves this small, seasonal restaurant that boasts an inventive menu in one of Chicago’s up-and-coming neighborhoods, Logan Square.

Giant: Homemade pastas, great cocktails, small space, and hip vibe. We still talk about our meal there, including the fantastic cocktail, which we have the recipe for hand-written on a postcard the waiter gave us.

Passerotto: This relatively new Italian/Korean fusion joint is in our ‘hood. The crudos and the pastas were some of my best bites of last year. You won’t find this menu anywhere else. Skip the Korean BBQ platter, IMO. (This restaurant has since closed.)

Longman & Eagle: Hipster-ville but totally delicious. Go for brunch or dinner with friends.

Fat Rice: Portuguese-Chinese fusion that sorta went viral in Chicago. Great pastry selection. Huge communal tables. Rowdy, fun vibe. Go in a group so you can order a lot! (This restaurant has since closed.)

Steakhouses:

Maple & Ash: I feel like someone is going to yell at me for not having any of the classic Chicago steakhouses on this list, but oh well. Maple & Ash is one of the most romantic, special restaurants I’ve been to in the city. This place is SEXY (we’re talking actual candelabras and velvet curtains), and their wood-fired seafood with chili oil is the stuff of dreams. I’ve been dying to try their Sunday brunch, which seems deliciously opulent.

RPM: Made famous by the celeb couple Bill and Giuliana Ranic, RPM is superb. It also has one of my favorite bites in the city: the miso crab appetizer. HOLY DELICIOUSNESS. I know several Chicagoans who have gone multiple times, including ourselves, and that’s saying something in a city that prides itself on high-end steakhouses. I don’t like the counterpart, RPM Italian, though.

Bavette’s: This is my go-to recommendation for date night. It’s swanky and sexy and the food is absolutely fantastic. They also have my favorite seafood tower in Chicago, and I’ve tried dozens.

Brunch Spots:

M. Henry: We live around the corner from this Chicago staple. It’s been open for years, and there’s still a line around the block every weekend. It was one of Chicago’s first brunch-only restaurants. The bliss cakes are where it’s at.

Prime & Provisions: Imagine that Marie Antoinette, who grew up to be a high-power businesswomen, said “I want an AYCE brunch, and I want it to be EXTRA.” That’s what you get here. The jaw-dropping spread is sure to wow you–and your belly.

The Allis: In the lobby of the uber hip Soho House Chicago, The Allis is all plush velvet sofas, antique rugs, chandeliers, and floor-to-ceiling windows. Their brunch is killer, but so is the atmosphere. Get the coconut pudding and the avocado toast.

SummerHouse Santa Monica: True to the name, this feels like a real CA experience. It’s bright and airy and bustling, and the brunch menu is extensive, as is the pastry selection!

Etta: From the same folks who did Maple & Ash, Etta is one of my favorite new-ish places in the city. Dinner is fantastic, too, but brunch is my favorite meal there. Also super kid-friendly.

Sweets:

BomboBar: You really don’t know me at all if you don’t know how deeply my love for BomboBar runs. Fresh-fried Italian donuts and obscene milkshakes and sundaes that are the stuff of Instagram foodies’ dreams. Luckily, they just opened a second location. So, I won’t have to wait in a 50-person line anymore. (Though, TBH, I would have done that forever.)

Pretty Cool Ice Cream: Insta-worthy interior, drool-worthy frozen treats. PCIC has a range of 20+ popsicles and ice cream bars, all made in-house. Think caramel ice cream dipped in milk chocolate and covered in salty potato chips.

Mindy’s Hot Chocolate: This place has an impressive savory menu too, but we’ve only ever gone for the desserts, including the hot chocolate so good it warrants the restaurant name. You’ll want a reservation, as the secret has been out about this place for quite some time. (They are now producing THC-laced edible sweets, too. Get ready, Chicago!) (This restaurant has since closed.)

Sweet Mandy B’s: If you close your eyes and imagine what the bakery of your unicorn-laden dreams would look like, this would be it. SMB’s has my favorite buttercream-smothered desserts in the world. Their iced sugar cookies and vanilla cupcakes are my standards, but I dare you to leave without a box full of temptations.

Floriole: Floriole is right next door to SMB’s and is like its older, more sophisticated French cousin. They do a great cafe-style lunch, and their croissants and composed desserts are some of the best in the city. The passion-fruit tart and pot de creme are my personal faves, along with their bacon, arugula, and fig sandwich.

Chicago “Must Eats”:

Lou Malnati’s: I don’t love deep dish pizza, admittedly, but this is the one most Chicagoans recommend, and, if you’re in the city for the first time, deep dish is a rite of passage. Chicagoans go for the sausage.

Pequod’s: If I have to eat deep dish, this is the one I prefer–crispy, near-burnt cheese on the crust seals the deal.

Weiner’s Circle: This place is a bit of a Chicago legend. Great char-dogs with all the Chicago toppings, served alongside a good ol fashion verbal roasting from the workers. Go, ask for ketchup, have your iPhone video camera ready.

Hot G Dawg: Hot Doug’s was a famous hot dog eatery in the city, garnering lines around the block. When it closed, the cooks opened Hot G Dawg, which is in our ‘hood. It’s uber-casual but uber-delicious. Get the classic Chicago dog and tots with cheese!

Taqueria El Asadero: Everyone knows about Chicago pizza and hot dogs, but the city is just as well-known for its authentic street tacos, and everyone has their favorite spot. This one is ours. Bring cash, prepare to smell like grilled steak, and, if it is nice, take your order to the park across the street and eat in the grass.

Cocktails:

Lost Lake: There are two can’t-miss tiki bars in the city, and this is one of them. Three Dots and a Dash is the other. The first is a bit hipster and the second is a bit scene-y, but both promise a good time, show-stopping Hawaiian-inspired cocktails, and lots of fun. (If you have an extra $500 to spare, try the Treasure Chest at Three Dots.)

Aviary: The Aviary is owned by the same people who brought us Alinea, and some may think it’s equally obnoxious/expensive/outrageous, but I love it. In fact, I much prefer the cocktail experience at Aviary to the dining experience at Alinea. If you want to really go big, book the chef’s kitchen table. The food is as good as the cocktails, which are each their own work of art. Two (three?) words: foie gras Snickers.

Apogee: Apogee is a less expensive, slightly less impressive alternative to Aviary. You won’t need tickets ahead of time, and there’s a great view, complete with an outdoor space. Plus, you’ll still get weird science-fair ready drinks with shit like cotton candy floating atop your martini.

Signature Lounge: The ONLY reason I am recommending this place is because it’s the best way to get a FREE view from the near-top of the Hancock building without paying to go to the observation deck. Instead, grab a cocktail at this restaurant on the 95th floor and enjoy the sights. Eat the food at your own risk.

Randolph Eats:

Au Cheval: already mentioned above

BombaBar: already mentioned above

Bavette’s: already mentioned above

Avec: Randolph is the most restaurant-packed street in Chicago, and you could easily make a day of eating your way up and down it. Avec is a little tapas-style bar with only enough seating for a handful of people. Go right as lunch or dinner service begins or make a reservation. Eat the chorizo-stuffed dates (though, everything is wonderful).

Bonci: Bourdain once called Bonci his favorite pizza in Rome, and Chicago got their first US location. You walk in, spy 20 or so different foccacia-style pizzas, and order by the slice, which they cut with a pair of scissors. Try 5 or 6 varieties, grab a can of wine or a cold beer, and chow down while you game-plan the rest of your Randolph eating adventure.

Gus’s Fried Chicken: When Memphis-started Gus’s finally came to Chicago, I was one happy southern gal. If you know me, you know how much I love fried chicken, and Gus’s is the best I’ve ever had. Anywhere. Ever.

Cold Storage: Okay, this is technically a couple blocks from Randolph, but it still counts. Cold Storage is one of the places we’ve been to the most–and since we try something new every time we go out, that is saying something. They have the best raw bar stuff (oysters, crab legs, etc.) in the city, and their smoked trout dip is INSANE. I like to go, grab a cocktail, sit at the bar, and down some seafood before moving on to the next stop.

Bavette’s/Maude’s: I’ve already mentioned Bavette’s, and Maude is Bavette’s twin. Both are dark and sexy. Both have a speakeasy vibe. Both have been long-standing winners on the Chicago dining scene. Maude’s steak tartare is the best in Chicago.

Cheap-ish Eats

Xoco: Rick Bayless is one of the most famous Chicago chefs–a ginger guy known for his Mexican cuisine. (I’ll let you work out the ethics of that.) I’m not a huge fan, but XOCO is the exception. It’s his fast-casual concept, and I prefer the food to his finer dining establishments. The masa dumpling soup with carnitas and arugula is one of my favorite Chicago dishes, but folks also love the tortas.

Taqueria El Asadero: already mentioned above

La Unica Market: This place is so underground they don’t even have a website. La Unica is a Cuban market on the north side of the city, and there’s a cafe tucked in back that serves amazing fare, including killer cubano sandwiches, the best black beans you’ll ever eat, and a whole range of Latin finds.

Calumet Fisheries: This place requires three things of you: a car, a love of seafood, and a serious devotion to foodie travel adventures, as you’ll have to drive a good 30 minutes from downtown in order to access this roadside seafood shack, where you can get the best smoked salmon–and a whole host of other sea-based fare–to go. Eat the fish with your hands, out of a paper bag, while sitting in a nearby park. Be prepared to smell of hickory for the entire day, but it’s so worth it.

Lao Sze Chuan: When I moved to the city, LSC only had one location; now they have many. I can’t really vouch for the others, but the one in Chinatown has long been a favorite of ours. Get the dan-dan noodles and the five chili chicken. After, head over to Chiu Quon Bakery for $1.00 pork buns and coconut custard tarts. (There’s also a Chiu Quon on Argyle, which is in the city’s Little Vietnam neighborhood.)

Manny’s Deli: Open for over 75 years, this is a true NYC-style Jewish deli experience. You grab a tray and work your way down the line, ordering all of the smoked meat sandwiches, matzo ball soups, and other Jewish delicacies you can bare to carry.

Sun Wah BBQ: If you’ve never done a Peking duck experience, then you must try this place! Bring at least 4 people, be sure to call and order at least 24 hours ahead of time, and be prepared for a feast. One duck will net you enough bao for 4-5 people, duck fried rice, and duck soup.

Wildcards:

Here are some places that are work a visit but didn’t fit neatly into any other category

Langham: Best afternoon tea service in a totally awe-inspiring hotel space. Fancy, girly–worth the splurge!

Proxi: One of our favorite new restaurants of the past few years. They do global-inspired street food in a slightly upscale, but still whimsical, way.

Bar Ramone: Some of our favorite tapas and cocktails are in this small but centrally located bar. The salmon tartare, tomato bread with jamon, and patatas bravas (which they do as fries) should all be tried. It’s perfect for a group date or cocktails and nibbles before a night out.

Eataly: Nearly every major city in the US now has its own Eataly, but if you’ve never been to one, this Italian food mega-mall/dining hall is definitely worth a stop. There’s a Nutella station. Need I say more?

Virtue: Stationed in Hyde Park and run by one of the Obamas’ favorite chefs, Virtue has the best Southern food we’ve eaten outside of the South.

Honorable mentions: Galit (very new Israeli place that’s on everyone’s hot list with good reason), The Gage (one of our first Chicago loves–good option across the street from Millennium Park, Aba (only for the rooftop and cocktails, beware of scenesters), Burger Bar (our favorite burgers, after Au Cheval), Tank Noodle (and any of the pho places on Argyle, really), Uru Swati (our favorite Indian street food spot),

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The Big Question: What’s Next?

6 / 17 / 196 / 18 / 19

Let’s do a quick walk-through of the past 18 years of my and Sona’s relationship. If you skim through that timeline, you’ll hit a milestone every few years: graduate from undergrad, move to a big city, get graduate degrees, land our dream jobs, get married (legally!!!), have Finn, buy our first house, have Elias.

working on a grad school paper
pregnant with Finn
Elias’s first day

I think back through those years, and I am so proud of where we are and how far we’ve come. We are living the life we could have only dreamt of when we first met in that Tennessee dorm room way back in 2000. 18 year old Danielle’s big dreams aren’t lost on 37 year old Danielle, trust me.

Still, for as long as Sona and I have been together, we have always been working towards something: a degree, a career, a home, a baby. Now that we’ve had Elias, and are certain that our baby-making years are behind us, I have found myself thinking, “What’s next?”

Before you start sending me “appreciate what you have” or “stop and smell the roses” memes, let me assure you: I do. We do. We love the life we’ve created together, and we recognize how fortunate we are to live it, but at the end of a long day, when we’re frazzled and tired and thread-bare. When we’ve paid the bills and called about the weird insurance notice we got in the mail and responded to the 27 to-do items on our HOA’s fix-it list, and dropped the boys off at daycare, and ran to the gym, and commuted to our respective jobs, and picked the boys up from daycare, and rushed home to cook dinner, and answered a million work-related emails, and given whatever pet is sick their medicine, and rushed to make bedtime happen at a relatively normal hour, and watched our 60-90 minutes of DVR’d TV, and crawled back into our perfectly comfortable bed, and set the alarms on our phones for the next morning, when we will wake up and do some version of all of that all over again, I think we both wonder, “Can we do this for the next 30 years?”

More to the point: do we want to do this for the next 30 years?

That is the question that’s been needling us for a while, now. Before the boys, we talked about our pipe-dream of moving internationally for a stint. Where to? Who knows. And do what? That’s a good question. But it was always something at the back of our minds.

When we started traveling to the Caribbean a lot, it became clear to me that a Caribbean lifestyle was I could be happy with. Like, forever. If you know me, you’ve likely heard me wax poetic about being barefoot in the sand, living in a simple cottage, spending most of my time outdoors, eating head-on fish with my hands, and never wearing make-up again.

Yet, there were milestones we knew we wanted to hit. And so, our one-day Caribbean pipe-dream never moved far beyond the waxing.

Then we had Elias, got through the first few months of having a newborn, which, as any parent can tell you, doesn’t allow you much time to think about anything else, and let the dust settle. And once it settled, the nagging question began to echo louder: “What’s next?”

I think it’s easy to conflate a lust for adventure with discontentment. A therapist might tell us that, by always looking to what’s next, we’re trying to out-run some sort of emotional baggage. But for me, it’s not so much that I’m craving an escape as I’m craving a beginning. Like I said, I love my life, but I don’t want this to be the only life I ever live. I don’t want to re-write the same chapter over and over, decade after decade, without ever trying something new.

And what’s also become abundantly clear to both myself and Sona is that the lives we live now don’t allow us to maximize time with our kids. Practically speaking, our kids are with their daycare providers more than they are with us. And even when we are together, Sona and I are often so spent that we don’t have as much energy to devote to family time as we’d like.

But we’re also craving something else: a completely new experience that shows our boys a different pace of life and affords us the invaluable gift of bonding together in the context of the unknown. A chance to live somewhere altogether different than Chicago. A new landscape. A new language. A new lifestyle.

And we recognize that, when it comes to the boys, there’s a window in which we can do this. We need a few years to prepare. We want the boys to both be old enough to remember our adventure and get the most out of it but not so old that they resist family time and resent us for leaving their friends. And, should all things go as planned, we’d like to come back in time for them each to experience a full high school career in the States, giving them the opportunity to experience all the things you experience as an American teen, including a fairly rooted peer group.

Ultimately, that means that our window is somewhere between the ages of when Elias is 4 or 5 and Finn is 12 or 13. If you’re doing the math, that means we have about 3 or 4 years to shit or get off the proverbial pot.

Recently, Sona and I have begun getting more and more serious about our pipe-dream. We’ve given ourselves one year to make an informed decision, which means we are embarking on an info-gathering mission.

There’s so much to consider. Chief among our anxieties are these questions: Would I be stupid to give up a tenured academic position that I love, knowing these sorts of gigs are near impossible to come by? (Sona could get a new job relatively easily.) Would we be fools to abandon the financial security that we’d likely have at about the same time we’d be giving it all up to move abroad? Would I be able to have affordable access to insulin? What would we do with our stuff? Sell it all and start from scratch? Pay to store it for an unknown length of time? Will our pets still be alive?

Of course, some of those questions are more pressing than others.

Then, there’s the questions we have about where we’d move to: Can we find a place that feels undeveloped without sacrificing basic infrastructural needs? Will we both be able to find jobs that support our cost of living? Will there be good schools for the boys? In case of emergency, will we have access to affordable healthcare?

A while ago, we abandoned hope that we’d end up on a small Caribbean island. As much as I’d love it, it just wouldn’t be practical. And we’ve gotten to the stage in our game-planning that we are mindful of practicality.

That has led us to Costa Rica, a place we visited in 2012 and fell in love with. Costa Rica gives us much of what we want: a new language, a new culture, a Caribbean vibe, lots of geographic variety ripe for exploring, cultural richness, the ocean. It also has enough infrastructure that we’d feel comfortable moving there with young kids. CRNAs can practice, and there are several teaching possibilities.

The one catch is that you have to be a citizen in order to be employed in the country, and citizenship requires three years of residency. So, we’d have to have employers advocate for our getting work visas out of need, which might prove tricky.

But I’m getting ahead of myself. We haven’t made a decision, remember? Come the summer of 2020, we have to decide: Do we want to slowly begin downsizing, preparing for a life-changing move out of the US? Or do we want to sell our condo, roll our money into a single family home, and commit to life in Chicago long-term.

By the summer of 2020, we’ll have to decide: what’s next?

(In the meantime, I’d love to be connected to any ex-pat families with small-ish children who would be willing to let me pick their brains.)

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For Christina (or When Life-long Friends Become First-time Moms)

5 / 16 / 195 / 16 / 19
Image may contain: Christina Benn and Danielle L. Aquiline, people smiling, closeup

Christina:

Welcome to the club. Two months from now, if all goes as planned, you’ll be holding your baby boy, and I will be an unofficial (but very enthusiastic) auntie.

I can’t even explain to you how much I’ve waited for that day. Though, if my incessant nagging has been any indication, you already know. Wanting my own friends, especially my most cherished, beloved friends, to have babies is a pretty self-serving desire, admittedly. After nearly four years of mom-ing, myself, I now know how absolutely integral a Moms’ Club is. I only have a couple of friends with babies, and I’ve leaned on them–especially in the beginning–for survival. That’s not hyperbole.

I was terrified, and I was a mess.

You are probably terrified, too, and you should be. You are about to be tired in ways you never knew you could be tired. I’m talking whole-body exhaustion that will take away your ability to think rationally. 

You are going to forget who you were before you were a mom. Some of that evolution you’ll welcome, and a lot you’ll resent. You’ll forget how to be a partner, too, for a while at least. It’ll take its toll, and you will feel–you will be–beat down and bedraggled.

You are also going to be worried and scared and frustrated beyond anything you’ve ever experienced. This is the trope people focus on when depicting parenthood—and I get why. That part is awful, and people should know what they are getting into. (Though, really, how can you ever know until you know?)

But the part they don’t do a good job of explaining, the part no movie or TV show or book or sappy Hallmark commercial gets quite right, is just how good it is.

It is so good. Life-defining good.

And that’s the other reason I want so badly for my friends to become moms. Yes, so we can commiserate over texts and alcohol, hair disheveled and sweatpants stained, about how worn out we are. But also, yes, so you can experience “so much wonder that wonder is not the word,” as a poet I love writes.

Let me paint you a picture: it is 4:00 in the afternoon. I’ve just finished my last class of what has been a really trying semester. I have approximately 27 things to do, and I know the kids will be home in less than an hour. I could be doing those things. I could be eating the salted caramel macarons I just bought, against my better judgement, at a local bakery. I could be prepping dinner or putting away the groceries that were delivered 45 minutes ago or taking a quick nap, which we all know I need.

Instead, I’m sitting in the rocking chair in the boys’ room, obsessively watching videos of when they were babies, mascara trailing down my face. It’s a pathetic thing to see. I’m a cliche. And I don’t care even one little bit.

I am obsessed with my kids. My life is damn-near unmanageable because of them, and yet I still want more of them. I count down the minutes until the boys’ bedtime each night, and then I crawl into my own bed and scroll through photos and videos of them.

I have never known a fear or sorrow like what I experience when I think about them growing up. So, I just try not to think about it all that much.

My life is harder, more stressful, less creative, less glitzy, more taxing than it has ever been. It’s also better in unimaginable, indescribable ways.

You won’t understand what I mean completely, now. How can you? It’s like trying to explain the ocean to someone who has never left the sand. You might not even understand immediately, in the weeks after the baby is born. Don’t give yourself a hard time about that. The fog can be hard to see through.

But you’re going to understand it, soon. You’re going to be sitting in a corner of your bedroom–which will, undoubtedly, be a mess–and the baby will have finally gone to sleep after hours of fussiness; and your face will be dirty and your clothes will be spit-up stained; and you won’t have had 5 minutes of quality time with your husband in as long as you can remember; and there will be more laundry than you think you’ll ever get done; and you’ll figure you have about 40 minutes, if you’re lucky, to shower for the first time in days; and you’ll reach for a bath towel but spot the baby monitor out of the corner of your eye, instead; and, against your better judgement, you’ll grab it, turning the volume up just high enough to hear your baby cooing; you’ll zoom in, panning the camera around so that you can see his lips in the shape of a sweet “O,” his belly rising and falling, and one soft curl on his head; and you’ll think, “What’s one more day without a shower?”; and you’ll sit back on the floor, instead; and you’ll watch your baby breathe; and you’ll be filled with so much wonder that wonder isn’t the word.

And I can’t wait.

Danielle

Image may contain: Christina Benn and Danielle L. Aquiline, people standing, mountain, sky, outdoor, water and nature

Image may contain: Christina Benn and Danielle L. Aquiline, people smiling, night and closeup

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Traveling with Small Kids

4 / 26 / 194 / 26 / 19

“Do you have any tips for traveling with small kids?” is probably the question I get asked the most, both on social media and in real life. It’s not that Sona and I are the most well-traveled folks around; it’s just that there aren’t that many families who venture out–especially internationally–with small kiddos. That trend is changing, though, slowly, and that’s thanks to a lot of Insta-famous globe-trotting families.

I’ve joked a lot about how naive Sona and I were pre-kids, promising each other that we wouldn’t let our babies derail our lifestyles–that we’d just strap them on us and bring them along to hip restaurants, long city walks, and international adventures. We had no idea what kind of shit-storm we were heading into, of course, but actually, I think we’ve stayed fairly true to that promise.

As much as we can, we still do the things that make us us, even with a baby and toddler in tow. Of course, we don’t do those things as frequently (hello, expensive daycare costs), as spontaneously, or without a fair share of anticipated stress, but we still do them. And that’s what matters.

I’m no expert when it comes to traveling with kids. Like anyone, even our best laid toddler-baby-travel plans often go up in smoke, but I have learned some tips and tricks along the way. And, since I think it’s so important to keep doing the things that make you you, even with little ones, I thought I’d share.

Here are our tried and true tips for traveling with small kids:

  1. Don’t follow any ubiquitous travel-planning advice. You know your kids better than anyone. Follow their lead. For us, that means that, unlike a lot of parents, we try to avoid red eye flights. Early mornings, allowing us to travel 5-7 hours and still get to our destination in time for an afternoon naps, works best for us. Finn is a great sleeper–when he’s in his crib. He’s never been keen on sleeping anywhere else, including planes. So, we try to avoid all-night flights, as we know he will likely resist sleep with every ounce of his little willful power, and we will all be miserable as a result.
  2. When traveling with an infant, book bulkhead seats and request a bassinet. I feel like this is just one of those tips that most people don’t know about unless another parent tells them. When we flew to Portugal when Elias was 8 weeks old, the bassinet was a life-saver. It hooked to the wall right in front of our seats, and he slept in there most of the flight. (Finn, on the other hand, didn’t sleep at all. See tip #1.) Not all airlines have bassinets, and most don’t let you reserve them ahead of time, but if you get to the airport early enough, scoring one shouldn’t be a problem.
  3. If you can afford it, get the kid their own seat. Yes, having a little one who can travel free-of-charge until they are one years old is a perk, but how much is that perk worth to you? Your sanity? For us, we prefer for our kiddos to have their own seats once they are one. Babies an be easy to hold, pass around, plop in a bassinet, but a wiggly one year old is a whole other story. If it’s affordable, it’s always worth the extra space.
  4. Pack extra carry-on clothes for everyone. Plus some. Every single time we’ve ever traveled, someone has needed an outfit change: spills, blow-outs, dirty airport floors. There are myriad reasons why you’ll need extra clothes. We also learned early-on that parents will need extra clothes, too. Trust us, we know from experience that you don’t want to spend 5 hours on an airplane wearing a puke-stained t-shirt.
  5. Expect that your luggage will, at some point, get lost, and have everything you’d need to survive for 24 hours in a carry-on: extra outfits, swimsuits for warm-weather destinations, formula, diapers, wipes, lovies, blankets for bedtime, etc. The only thing more stressful than traveling with kids is traveling with kids and not having your kid’s survival kit handy.
  6. Ditch the carseat, stroller, and any other big, heavy baby stuff. This is going to be controversial, I know. But honestly, for us, we had to simplify our must-take list. Even without these big ticket items, Sona and I often struggle to carry our luggage and our boys at the same time. There are NO free hands. We rent carseats wherever we go, understanding that it’s a slight risk. We also forgo carseats on airplanes, as our kids hate them anyway. If we are going to a place with a beach, we know we likely won’t use a stroller. So, we opt for baby-wearing. In fact, we almost always opt for baby-wearing whenever possible. If you want to travel regularly with small kids, you will have to make some sacrifices. You’ll have to do some cost-benefits analysis. For us, renting whatever we need (cribs, carseats, etc.) at our destination saves us a lot of stress and headaches.
  7. Stay somewhere with a washer and dryer, and only take half as many clothes. Man, our lives changed when we started doing this. If we are going somewhere for 8 days, we take 4 days worth of clothes and wash mid-way through the week. Think about it: that cuts down on HALF of the clothes you have to take, and it just simplifies packing, too.
  8. Pack an on-the-plane survival kit appropriate to the length of your flight. Whenever we travel, we take a bookbag packed with favorite snacks, small activities (coloring books, stickers, playdoh, window clings, etc.), and new toys. I usually keep a stockpile of stuff in our closet and add to it whenever I see something the boys would like: little action figures, cars, construction trucks, etc. The Dollar Store is a great source for these sorts of goodies! Generally, I plan for one toy or treat for every 20-30 minutes, just in case the plane ride is rough. If you want, you can wrap these treats and call them “plane presents,” which the kids really like. Of course, I never pull out a plane present unless I need one. So, some plane rides require two presents and some require five. It just depends on everyone’s mood. I also try to make sure that the toys are things they can use at our destination, as we usually don’t pack other toys for them. So, I’ll get water-friendly toys for the beach, for example. Those will be the things the kiddos play with while we are out of town.
  9. Save a favorite treat for after landing. For me, the most stressful part of a long travel day is when we’ve landed and have to patiently stand in a customs line or wait for luggage. By that point, everyone is tired and hungry and cranky–and TOTALLY out of patience. So, I’ve found that having a favorite goodie (for Finn, that’s a Kinder egg), helps us get through those long waits.
  10. Build excitement for the trip by talking about it a lot beforehand. This is something we’ve just started doing in the past year or so, now that Finn is older. For the month or so before we travel somewhere new, we show him videos, read books, and talk a lot about where we are going. That way, by departure day, he’s super excited and doesn’t feel like he doesn’t know what he’s getting into.
  11. Stick to sleep schedules as much as possible. You know, kids crave routine, especially when it comes to sleep. When we travel, it’s really easy to get off that routine. We do often let the kids stay up a little later or occasionally skip naps, but as much as possible, we try to keep sleep consistent.
  12. Buy it there. We are just coming around to this one, as it can be anxiety-inducing to head to a foreign place without knowing whether they will have diapers that fit your baby’s chunky thighs. When we first traveled with the kids, we’d take suitcases full of diapers and wipes and formula and baby-friendly snacks. More and more, we are recognizing that EVERYWHERE–even small, nearly uninhabited islands–sells baby stuff. You know why? Because babies are born EVERYWHERE. 😉
  13. Rent a home rather than stay in a hotel. We started doing this even before having kids, as there are SO many advantages to having a home. You get to live like a local. You get more space. You get a kitchen. You get advice from a local/the owner. It’s considerably cheaper. With kids, that list goes on. Everyone can have their own room, just like at home. There are kid-friendly AirBnBs with toys and cribs and baby-proofed spaces. You don’t have to stress about disrupting the peace and quiet of everyone else at the hotel. MORE SPACE for all of the kid crap you’ll inevitably have.
  14. Tell yourself that travel days are going to suck. Sometimes, they don’t, but most of the time, they really do. Travel days often suck when it’s just Sona and I, too. If you don’t expect it to be easy, you won’t be surprised when it is hard. We’ve had some AWFUL travel days, but we’ve never felt like the trip itself wasn’t worth it.
  15. Have reasonable expectations. This is the biggie, and it doesn’t happen in the first trip–or even the first few. I’ll be honest: traveling with the kids is NOTHING like when Sona and I get to travel alone. It’s less relaxing, more exhausting, and requires a lot more work. When we go into a vacation thinking, “We are going to do Portugal the way we would do Portugal by ourselves,” we are just setting ourselves up for failure. Instead, we now think, “We are going to live our everyday lives with kids, just in a different location.” In other words, expect that you will have to do and deal with everything you do and deal with at home–just somewhere prettier and maybe warmer! Have one goal a day: a place you want to see, an excursion you want to try, a restaurant to eat at. Do not over-plan; do not set-up some elaborate itinerary. You’ll just be stressed out and disappointed when you can’t stick to it. When everyone said we were crazy for taking a newborn to Portugal, we would say, “Well, we can be tired in Chicago or we can be tired on the beach in Portugal,” and we were both very glad we chose the latter.
  16. Just go. I promise you won’t regret it. Almost every single one of my most-cherished memories, both as a couple and a family, are from our travels. Pushing your kids to see new places, experience new cultures, and eat new food will make them better, more curious and well-rounded people. Getting away from the responsibilities of home will allow you to hyper-focus on your family and to be present, something that’s so much harder to do when we are caught up in the rat race of our normal lives, unfortunately. Yes, your kid could get sick from something they eat. Yes, they will be tired and cranky at times. Yes, you’ll have to fumble a bit in order to find your stride. But guess what? That’s true of staying put, too–only you miss out on the adventure.


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Trip Report: Antigua

4 / 12 / 198 / 6 / 19

It’s pretty obvious to everyone that our trip to Antigua didn’t end well. What with cancelled and rebooked flights, two cases of food poisoning, and an ER visit on the other end, we didn’t exactly get to ease out of the island in the same way we eased into it.

Still, before things spiraled, they were actually pretty great. For the boys, at least, the trip was full of only good memories. Finn, especially, seemed to really hit his vacation stride on this trip, and I know his memories of Antigua will only consist of the happy things: donkey kisses, water bottle fights with local kids, and more pool time than he could ever want.

Antigua was a beautiful island, and though we’d worried that it would be too developed for our taste, we managed to avoid most of the cruise crowds, and it ended up being just our speed.

It was our 10th island, Finn’s 3rd, and Elias’s 1st. All things considered, I’d say it was a pretty good inauguration into Caribbean life for our little guy.

Here are more photos than you probably want to see from our time there.

Our Antigua Faves and Recommendations:

  • stay in a villa at Tamarind Hills
  • get avocados and Antiguan pineapples from Clemie’s fruit stand
  • grab a passion fruit daiquiri from the bar at Carlisle Bay resort
  • make a day of going to Long Bay beach (the end opposite the Pineapple Resort), eating at Mama’s Pasta, and seeing Devil’s Bridge
  • eat lunch and then reserve a daybed at Jacqui O’s 
  • visit the donkey sanctuary
  • eat a trendy meal at Sheer Rocks
  • spend a day (or 5) at Ffryes Beach, renting chairs and umbrellas from Dennis’s 
  • go to the Sunday night BBQ at Shirley’s Heights 



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